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Jewel of a collection
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JOVIAN Mandagie´s Lebaran 2010 range makes a striking statement with the use of semi-precious stones, writes DAZMAN MANAN.

Photojournalist Steve McCurry´s shot of Sharbat Gula, the famous Afghan refugee who was orphaned during the Soviet Union´s bombing of Afghanistan in the 1980s, is one of very few pictures that can trigger sorrow and sadness in many people.
  • Modern baju kurung accented with stones and rosettes

  • Modern baju kurung accented with stones and rosettes

  • Modern baju kurung accented with stones and rosettes

  • Modern baju kurung accented with stones and rosettes

  • Jovian’s turquoise treat

With a torn and tattered red scarf loosely draped over her head, she stares directly into the camera with her piercing eyes. Her skin pale and dry. Her lips parched. But her eyes in a gorgeous shade of light green are just stunning.

Despite her tragic life, the Afghan Girl, as she is famously known, appears hopeful and undoubtedly beautiful. So much so that Sharbat´s picture by McCurry that appeared on the cover of the June 1985 issue of National Geographic, which later became the magazine´s most recognised photograph ever, is the inspiration behind Jovian Mandagie´s Lebaran 2010 collection.

Launched at a Middle Eastern lounge in a hotel in Kuala Lumpur recently, the range specially designed for the upcoming Hari Raya features festive wear that do not reflect the Afghan Girl´s old rag at all. Then again, a few did look creased and un-ironed.

One deduces that it could only be Sharbat´s enchanting eyes that Jovian was enthusiastic about. After all, there were lots of turquoise stones encrusted on almost all of his creations, even the ones for men.

In fact, the only striking statement about his glad rags for Raya is the baubles, some of which are said to be genuine semi-precious ones, scattered and sprinkled on hemlines, bodices, shawls, scarves and head gears.

An emerald green silk charmeuse batwing blouse gets its own bling fix as stones that could well be jasper, coral, moonstone and more adorn the neckline, saving the model from having to wear jewellery.

Hot red stones make for an arresting accent on a leopard-print kaftan-style number while white-coloured baubles as well as those in brown and dark green embellish one of Jovian´s turquoise treat, also in an updated kaftan design.

Fit for an African queen is a zebra print two-piece ensemble detailed with coloured stones on the waistline to resemble a bejewelled belt.

If stones are not your thing, Jovian offers a collection of modern baju kurung and kebaya accented with rosettes. Dainty and feminine, the pretty blooms are "planted" on the bodice, shoulder and neckline.

This particular range, comprising mostly long fitted skirts and curvaceous tops, is a tad tiresome in terms of design and fabric. Or, could it have been the poor lighting during the show that did not enhance the pale pastel tones of the outfits? A colleague noted that it could also be Jovian´s tribute to the forlorn Afghan Girl.

Whichever it was, his menswear line called MR J managed to perk things up a little. A long black kurta is adorned with faint silver embroidery on one side, lending just the right amount of sparkle.

Strictly for the metrosexual male is a djelabba made more mysterious with lace detailing. Next comes a modern, golden yellow kurta highlighted with gold embroidery as well as semi-precious stones.

The latter looks way too "costume-y" but it might just look perfect on a bridegroom. And, MR J´s bride can wear Jovian´s final outfit at the show - a yellow concoction of flowing chiffon and luxurious lace complete with a floor-length bejewelled headgear.

In the words of Jovian himself: "This whole collection for Raya shies away from the traditional style so that you can wear them for many other occasions". Except to the Afghanistan desert.
Source : New Straits Times
By : DAZMAN MANAN
14 Jul 2010


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